A Summer Weekend Along Nova Scotia's Annapolis Basin

“In summer, the song sings itself.” — William Carlos Williams

I spotted those words handwritten on a chalkboard outside a business in Annapolis Royal, N.S., shortly after we arrived Saturday morning.

By Sunday evening, they felt less like a quote and more like an explanation.

But let me back up.

Just a few days earlier, Keith and I decided to spend a night with our daughter, Sidney, who is living in Annapolis Royal for a month this summer. Long before European settlement, the area was home to the Mi'kmaq. Beginning in the early 1600s, its sheltered harbour helped establish Annapolis Royal as one of Atlantic Canada's most strategically important colonial settlements.

With Sidney’s husband away for the weekend, it seemed a great opportunity for the three of us to spend some time together and see where the road would take us.

The weekend unfolded naturally as we wandered the streets of one of Canada’s oldest towns, browsed independent shops, explored harbours, shared laughs over long meals and took time to breathe it all in.

Our first stop after leaving Moncton was the postcard-worthy town of Wolfville. Keith had attended Acadia University, so a mini campus tour was in order. It had been years since he’d visited his old stomping grounds. We took a slow drive past many familiar buildings, including the residence where he and other students once relocated a fellow student’s car. Yes, inside the building.

With silly times remembered, we were off to the Wolfville Farmers’ Market, which was lively with shoppers, musicians, local food producers and artisans. We grabbed hot drinks and buttery chocolate croissants before forging onward.

By the time we arrived in Annapolis Royal, Sidney was ready to show us the town she's calling home for the next month.

Lunch was an easy choice. Annapolis Brewing Company had been recommended by friends and provided a relaxed atmosphere, local beer and delicious eats from Fort Anne Café, located next door.

We later wandered through town, rambling from one independent shop to the next. At Coastal Reflections, we admired the work of Atlantic Canadian artists and makers, including stunning jewellery by Newfoundland designer Elizabeth Burry and Moncton’s own Marcia Poirier, colourful stained glass by Glass Roots, and these delightful carvings that made me smile.

At Far Fetched Antiques and Art Gallery, we browsed rooms filled with handwoven rugs, Buddha sculptures, carved doors, handcrafted jewellery and distinctive furniture from around the world.

As lifelong book lovers, we happily lost track of time at MareGold Bookstore and Gallery. We divided up to peruse shelves of more than 10,000 carefully selected non-fiction books, from Atlantic Canadian history and nature to art, gardening and wellness. Needless to say, my backpack was noticeably heavier when we left.

We continued on foot, past gardens, historic buildings and the waterfront boardwalk.

Eventually, we made our way to Fort Anne National Historic Site. We strolled along the grassy ramparts where Scottish, French and British forces once fought for control of the strategic settlement. Sidney and I took a break in the signature red Parks Canada chairs, cooling our heels and soaking up the glorious sunshine.

We capped off the day with dinner at Maison St. George, a European-style bistro inside Annapolis Royal’s historic Garrison House Inn. I opted for the Chicken Sando—roasted chicken with pesto, creamy brie, peppery arugula and balsamic glaze on locally baked Goat Island sourdough. Combined with my ‘Sober Mule’ (ginger beer and lime), it was the perfect ending to a joyful day.

The next morning, there was no need to set an alarm.

After a leisurely breakfast, we pointed the car toward Digby, about 45 minutes west along the Annapolis Basin, where the sheltered water opens into the Bay of Fundy.

First stop: the Digby Farmers' and Artisans' Market.

Smaller than Wolfville's bustling Saturday market but no less welcoming, Digby’s version was set up on the sidewalk facing the harbour. We chatted with vendors selling everything from paintings to pet bandanas. Keith and Sidney spent some time admiring the craftsmanship of a local woodworker while I was drawn to whimsical felted seagulls.

A few purchases later, we drove to Digby’s Fisherman’s Wharf. A few fishers cast lines for mackerel from the pier while boats bobbed gently in the harbour. As I sauntered along the dock, a curious seal surfaced nearby, likely on its own fishing expedition.

Not far away, we found the Bay Ferries’ terminal ready for its daily crossings to Saint John, New Brunswick—a route that has connected the two provinces for generations. I’ve yet to make the voyage aboard the Fundy Rose but hope to before long.

Before leaving town, we dropped by the Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa. The grand resort, built in 1929, is currently listed for sale but remains open for business. During our visit to the grounds and main lobby, it was strikingly quiet, with only a handful of guests in sight.

As we headed back toward Annapolis Royal, we took a side trip to the former Canadian Forces Base (CFB) Cornwallis, once one of Canada's largest naval training bases before it closed in 1996. Today, parts of the former base have been repurposed for community organizations and local businesses. The nearby shoreline is home to Annapolis Basin Tidal Beach Park, where we enjoyed a lovely walk across the tidal flats.

Hungry from our exploration, we drove on to Frank & Dora's, a roadside eatery in Deep Brook, N.S., that is equal parts restaurant, roadside attraction and nostalgia museum.

Vintage signs, old toys, classic advertising and enough quirky memorabilia to fill a small museum covered nearly every available inch of wall space. As we devoured our burgers, Keith and I pointed out reminders of our childhoods tucked among the displays and wondered how many decades it had taken to assemble such an eclectic collection.

After dropping Sidney off, Keith and I headed for Moncton, grateful we'd followed the impulse to come.

I love a well-planned journey, but sometimes the best trips simply unfold on their own.

William Carlos Williams had it right. In summer, the song sings itself.