Unbridled Friendship: An Escape to the Fredericton Capital Region

Jen and I in Grade 1 at Colby School in Sydney, Nova Scotia. We’d met a year earlier and became fast friends.

There’s something magical about travelling with a childhood friend. You share old stories, double over in laughter and enjoy new experiences that turn into stories you’ll retell for years. That’s exactly what I discovered on a recent girls’ weekend in New Brunswick’s Fredericton Capital Region.

Nestled along the Wolastoq (Saint John River), Fredericton offers a lovely mix of riverside trails, cultural sophistication and small-city warmth. The Fredericton Capital Region stretches across the Wolastoq, Nashwaak and Oromocto watersheds.

When I co-authored the guidebook Lonely Planet Atlantic Canada (2024), I described the Fredericton area as offering endless opportunities to explore history and culture — from outstanding art galleries and museums to heritage sites and lively festivals. I also noted its superb restaurants and vibrant craft brewery scene. Visiting again last weekend with my lifelong friend, Jen, reminded me how true that is — and how well it lends itself to a girlfriends’ getaway filled with art, food, history and, of course, joy!

Road trip mode: two childhood friends, one weekend of adventure ahead!

Saturday: Market, Art and Flavourful Bites

Our weekend began at the Boyce Farmers Market, which will celebrate its 75th anniversary next year. More than 200 vendors fill indoor and outdoor spaces in Fredericton’s downtown core each Saturday morning, offering everything from fresh produce to hand-knit socks. For locals, it’s a weekly ritual.

We strolled between stalls, sampling bites, chatting with vendors and leaving with bunches of sunflowers — a cheerful kickoff to the weekend.

Sunflowers in hand at the Boyce Farmers Market, a Saturday tradition in Fredericton for almost 75 years.

Next up was lunch at one of Fredericton’s most iconic pubs, The Snooty Fox on Regent Street. While it wasn’t my first choice for a girls’ lunch — the spot I’d originally planned was closed — it turned out to be a happy accident. Here, Jen and I met up with another dear friend, Kim, who recently battled cancer and, (very thankfully!), survived. Over plates of classic pub fare — fish and chips, clubhouse sandwiches — we caught up on life, health and resilience. We left with plates empty and hearts full.

Girls’ lunch at The Snooty Fox celebrating Kim’s continued recovery.

The afternoon was all about art and discovery. The Fredericton Capital Region punches far above its weight when it comes to the arts, anchored by the Beaverbrook Art Gallery. Founded in 1959 with works donated by Lord Beaverbrook, the gallery has grown into a world-class institution with more than 4,000 pieces, including Salvador Dalí’s monumental Santiago el Grande. It’s also deeply committed to contemporary Atlantic Canadian artists.

Jen up close with dazzling Pacotille / Trinket by New Brunswick multimedia artist and designer Denise Richard.

Art spills beyond the Beaverbrook and Fredericton’s other galleries, too. For example, The Artisan District brims with creativity at every turn. I was thrilled to see the quirky beavers and ducks of Moncton folk artist and pal Stephen Brander (Fiddlers Folk Art), shelves stacked with pottery and jewelry crafted from local shells. My favourite find? A shimmering quahog shell necklace by Moncton artist Marcia Poirier — a little early birthday treat for moi.

A quahog shell necklace by Moncton’s Marcia Poirier — my perfect Fredericton keepsake.

A whimsical beaver creation by Moncton folk artist Stephen Brander.

In late afternoon, we checked into our home base for the night, the Delta Hotels by Marriott Fredericton. Perched beside the river, it’s the kind of hotel that offers both luxury and comfort: sleek rooms, sweeping water views and the feeling of being both close to downtown and worlds away from any hustle and bustle. 

We loved the river view from our spacious room — with two super-comfy queen beds — at the Delta Hotels by Marriott Fredericton.

After a quick clothing change, we headed straight to the river’s edge. A sunset cruise with Wolastoq Adventures turned out to be one of the trip’s memorable highlights. The pontoon-style boat — wide and stable with cushioned bench seating, roof and windows — is perfect for small groups. Gliding along the river with four other guests, Jen and I saw the city from a new perspective — passing under the Westmorland Street Bridge, catching views of the Legislative Assembly building and soaking up Fredericton’s riverfront charm. As the sun dipped low, the sky lit up in fiery orange and soft gold, delivering a breathtaking finale to the day.

Well, almost the end of the day.

Evening brought more wows! At 11th Mile, a restaurant beloved by locals for its sharing plates and big flavours, Chef Peter Tompkins took us on a culinary adventure while his partner, Jennie Wilson, ensured service was warm and attentive.

Every dish delivered a delicious surprise.

The beef tostada provided a crunchy, saucy pow; the cucumber with salsa macha and soy emulsion was fresh and tangy. The cavatelli with squash, roasted peppers and Calabrian chili was hearty and bright, while the gnocchi with lamb ragù, mint and peas felt like fluffy clouds of comfort.

With citrusy Summer Rain cocktails in hand, Jen and I clinked glasses and agreed: this was midlife joy at its finest!

Sunday: Heritage & Horses

The next morning, we packed up at the Delta and drove 30 minutes west to Kings Landing, a sprawling living history village that reconstructs 19th-century New Brunswick life. Costumed interpreters welcomed us into clapboard homes and workshops. It reminded Jen and me of the dress-up games we played as kids — and had us half-seriously wondering if interpreter life might be in our future.

(I may return in October when Kings Landing offers its Thanksgiving feast at the King’s Head Inn. Tickets are available for the seasonal meal on October 4, 5, 11, 12 and 13. Check out www.kingslanding.nb.ca/thanksgiving.)

The entrance to Elite Equestrian.

From history, we shifted to healing. Just fifteen minutes away in Harvey, we joined a Fall Ladies Retreat at Elite Equestrian, hosted in partnership with Integrated Elevation Wellness & Retreats.  

Behind the amazing afternoon was Brittney O’Donnell, whose lifelong love of horses has shaped Elite Equestrian into a welcoming hub for riders of all levels. Whether it’s coaching, training or hosting retreats, Britt’s down-to-earth approach and genuine care for her horses create an atmosphere where both people and animals can thrive.

Retreat participants were divided into two groups, with the first (Jen and I included) headed to a corral for some Equine-Assisted Learning (EAL), where we discovered that horses reflect back our energy in remarkable ways. Guided by Somatic Experiencing therapist and certified EAL facilitator Meaghan MacLeod, owner of Integrated Elevation Wellness & Retreats, we explored how presence, trust and empathy shape relationships — both equine and human.

Next came a scenic trail ride under gorgeous autumn skies. Saddled up, we wound through forest paths, the rhythm of hooves on fallen leaves becoming its own quiet meditation.

Later, a therapeutic massage outdoors, courtesy of registered massage therapist (RMT) Erin Black, helped ease away tension, which was especially welcome for those of us who hadn’t been in the saddle for years.

RMT Erin Black works on Jen’s shoulders after the trail ride. I was next. It felt heavenly!

Elite Equestrian owner Brittney (Britt) O’Donnell, left, with EAL facilitator Meaghan MacLeod, centre, and RMT Erin Black, right.

The retreat ended with a local tasting experience at The Dandelion Den, a cute cabin located just a short walk from the stables. Inside, we gathered around a yummy charcuterie board, which we nibbled from while sampling cocktails created using spirits from Harvey-based Big Fiddle Still. The sun shone warmly outside, the trees already brushed with early autumn colour, making it all feel like a lovely last breath of summer.

The Dandelion Den, where we gathered for post-retreat refreshments and, later, where Jen and I stayed for the night.

That evening, Jen and I embraced the unplugged charm of the cabin. With only battery-operated lights and the warmth of a woodstove, we played games, sipped some vino and laughed lots. When all traces of daylight were gone, we bundled up in extra layers and settled into Adirondack chairs outside the cabin, gazing up at an incredible night sky. To our delight, we spotted two shooting stars streaking across the darkness. It was the perfect reminder of how simple moments can feel extraordinary when shared with a good friend.

Monday: Farewell & Takeaways

Morning came crisp and frosty, the kind of fall air that makes you add a second layer before you make a run to the outhouse.

After packing up, we returned to Fredericton for one last stop: The Cabin. The eatery — an area institution since 1934— is known for its hearty breakfasts and cozy diner atmosphere, a terrific send-off before we hit the road again.

My overflowing plate of breakfast goodies at The Cabin.

As we drove back to my home in Moncton, I thought back to the weekend’s highlights, including those two shooting stars — so fleeting and beautiful. I’m still thinking about them, reminded of how important it is to carve out time for connection, laughter and midlife joy. 

Make the call. Plan the trip. Take time for the special people in your life.

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This experience was made possible through a hosted stay in collaboration with Fredericton Capital Region Tourism and Destination New Brunswick. All stories, impressions and joy-filled moments are entirely my own.