Indulging in Saint Andrews
My first Indulge Food & Wine Festival in Saint Andrews was a feast of flavour, friendship and good times.
Since moving to New Brunswick in 1998, I’ve made many trips to Saint Andrews — also known as St. Andrews or St. Andrews by-the-Sea — tucked away in the province’s southwest corner, along the Bay of Fundy.
But this weekend was a first for my husband and me in the charming coastal town: our inaugural visit to the Indulge Food & Wine Festival, an annual event that brings together local chefs, winemakers and craft-beverage makers — along with food-and-drink lovers from near and far. The festival has been organized for more than a decade by Tressa Bevington with support from local tourism and industry partners.
A warm Saint Andrews welcome — the historic Inn on Frederick, our home base for the weekend.
After checking in at the Inn on Frederick, we picked up our festival wristbands, glasses and maps, ready to eat (and sip!) our way through town.
The Indulge adventure begins!
Friday — A Taste of St. Andrews
A variety of events span the weekend of the Indulge festival, from chef-led dinners to late-night dances. We didn’t make it to every happening but managed quite a few — including Taste of St. Andrews, where more than 30 venues offered small bites, local brews, and boutique wines. Among the many chefs taking part were Peter Tompkins of 11th Mile in Fredericton, as well as Prasanna Kumar of The Algonquin Resort, Saint Andrews, and Chris Aerni of the nearby Rossmount Inn.
From smoked seafood to decadent desserts, it was an edible exploration of local craft, creativity and community. What a great way to showcase the region’s offerings!
Standout Bites
Taste of St. Andrews did not disappoint. Personal favourites included a butter-chicken dumpling from Daddy Ji’s food truck, meatballs on creamy polenta from 11th Mile, and smoked-salmon canapés from Wolfhead Smokers. On the sweeter side, coconut cream puffs from Buttercream Dreams and raspberry profiteroles from The Algonquin Resort stole my heart.
Between bites and sips, the real flavour of the evening came from the people — locals and visitors alike.
A group of ladies — who I nicknamed the Real Housewives of Saint John — were making the most of Indulge Food & Wine while celebrating their 70th birthdays, complete with badges and glittering tiaras. I became their unofficial paparazzi, bumping into them and snapping photos at various stops along Water Street. At one point, they had me join in on a photo — borrowed tiara and all — proving that joy and friendship are always the best pairings of the night.
Birthday sparkle meets festival fun at Indulge!
We ended the evening surrounded by laughter, music and the happy chatter of festival-goers enjoying the town’s coastal hospitality.
Saturday — Hot Drinks, Cool Finds
The next morning, hubby and I recovered from our evening of indulgence with a hearty breakfast at the Inn on Frederick before setting off for the local farmers’ market.
Breakfast bliss at the Inn on Frederick.
With hot drinks in hand from Honeybeans Coffee, Tea & Treats, we strolled along the market kiosks, stopping to purchase handmade soaps, be tempted by beautiful crocheted ponchos and peruse unique woodworking items.
There was more shopping that afternoon, as we browsed some of my favourite area shops, including Cottage Chic, L.H. Boutique, the Whale Store, Warm and Coasty, Crocker Hill, the Nautical Shop, Marée as well as new-to-me stores like the Jona & Jessie Boutique and Bucca dell’Acqua. (The latter is shown below; stunning painting by store co-owner Kate Bucca.)
That evening, we headed to The Kennedy House for dinner and live music — a lively finale to a fun day.
Sunday — Hike for the Food Bank
On Sunday morning, we worked off some of our eating splurges by joining the Rossmount Inn’s annual Hike for the Food Bank. All proceeds from the climb up Chamcook Mountain, located behind the Rossmount, support the local food bank.
The trail to Chamcook’s summit is about 2.5 km (one way) and took us through a shimmering canopy of crimson and gold. The views of Passamaquoddy Bay and the islands beyond were breathtaking.
Once we’d reached the top, the Rossmount Inn’s Chef Aerni and helpers greeted hikers with steaming chili and homemade cookies — the perfect reward as we gazed out over the autumn-painted landscape.
Rossmount Inn’s Chef Chris Aerni ladles steaming chili for hikers atop Chamcook Mountain.
A mother pauses at the top of Chamcook Mountain to photograph her daughter amid the fall-colour magic.
Reflections on a Coastal Weekend
My love affair with Saint Andrews took a joyful turn during the Indulge Food & Wine Festival this weekend. Kudos to the organizer and her team, participating chefs, local businesses and all others involved in the memorable event.
Thinking of going next year? Tickets for this popular October weekend go fast. They went on sale online in August of this year. Check www.indulgenb.com and follow the festival on social media for 2026 updates.
Celebrating Birthday Joy in Toronto — Through Art, Culture, Food & Family
This 50+ mama believes every turn around the sun deserves a party — and Toronto, with its food, art and family fun, is the perfect place to celebrate.
When my birthday weekend approached last month, I didn’t need much convincing to celebrate — this 50+ mama believes every turn around the sun is worth a party. And where better to make that happen than Toronto — a city that knows how to celebrate in style!
Hubby and I flew from Moncton to Canada’s most populous city — home to about 2.9 million residents, about 7 million in the Greater Toronto region — for a weekend of food, fun and family time. Together, we explored attractions, did a little shopping, sampled phenomenal eats, watched some sports, and enjoyed every joyful moment along the way.
The iconic Toronto sign at Nathan Phillips Square.
Staying at the Heart of It All
Our home base for the weekend was the Chelsea Hotel, Toronto, which, fittingly, is celebrating its own milestone — a 50th anniversary. As the country’s largest hotel, the Chelsea has long been a downtown landmark, in the heart of the city. With 1,590 guest rooms housed in twin high-rise towers, the Chelsea anchors its downtown block with a sleek, contemporary look. It’s just steps from the College subway station and directly across from the new IKEA Toronto Downtown. (Dangerously convenient!) It’s also within easy walking distance of the Toronto Eaton Centre, Yonge Street shopping, and major attractions like the Rogers Centre, Scotiabank Arena and the Royal Ontario Museum.
The Chelsea Hotel, Toronto — Canada’s largest hotel and our welcoming home base for a weekend of midlife birthday joy.
Since my last visit about a decade ago, the Chelsea has had quite a transformation. The hotel recently completed a series of major renovations, refreshing more than 600 guestrooms, upgrading corridors, and modernizing meeting and dining spaces, with further work underway on nearly 1,000 more rooms and a soon-to-open lobby bar. These multi-million-dollar upgrades are part of the hotel’s vision for the future as it celebrates its 50th year.
(To commemorate the milestone anniversary, the hotel is running a special until Dec. 31 that includes a $50 food and beverage credit, breakfast for two and a welcome amenity. Members of the hotel’s loyalty program, Brilliant, receive an additional 5% discount. Learn more here.)
What hubby and I enjoyed most about our stay at the Chelsea was how welcoming it felt. While the lobby bustled with big-city energy, the courteous staff provided genuinely thoughtful service, making us feel right at home. (I also couldn’t resist chatting with the hotel’s own robot concierge — what a laugh!)
We also really appreciated the property’s excellent amenities. We made use of the Chelsea’s workout facilities, which include a full-scale fitness centre with cardio equipment and free weights. Guests can also access an indoor heated pool and whirlpool, saunas, and a seasonal sundeck. For families, there’s a pool with a waterslide on the second floor.
And can we talk about the dreamy bed that practically hugged us goodnight? After full days of exploring, nothing felt better than sinking into that cloud-like nest and watching the city lights twinkle beyond the balcony. Serious joy!
We dined off property for lunch and dinner during our stay but breakfast at the hotel’s lovely Elm Street Bar & Lounge and more casual Market Garden was delicious. The express|o Coffee & Wine Bar proved just right for afternoon tea.
Discovering Little Canada — Big Wonder in Miniature
One of the coolest experiences of the weekend was our visit to Little Canada, a captivating miniature world that brings the country to life in astonishing detail — from tiny versions of Niagara Falls to the Parliament Buildings in Ottawa. Each scene is meticulously crafted, complete with moving trains, twinkling lights and small people figures that make you feel like a giant exploring Canada in miniature. What an awesome family attraction for all ages!
Everyday Art and City Beauty
Even though we didn’t make it to any of Toronto’s world-class art galleries this trip, there was no shortage of art to be found. Everywhere we went, creativity spilled into the streets — from colourful murals on the sides of local businesses to floral and food displays at the St. Lawrence Market that seemed like works of art themselves. Even the city’s architecture, a mix of classic stone buildings and striking modern lines, felt like part of the show.
We also spent time in a few downtown parks, alive with people enjoying the sunshine. One of my favourite moments was simply people-watching from a row of Adirondack chairs near the St. Lawrence Market — sipping our teas and coffees, soaking up the energy of the city and wishing birthdays came more often.
Feast(s) for the Birthday Queen
I knew before we arrived that my birthday weekend would revolve around food — and Toronto did not disappoint. Our visit quickly turned into a gastronomic adventure.
At the St. Lawrence Market, I couldn’t resist the city’s unofficial rite of passage: a classic peameal bacon sandwich from Paddington’s, followed (naturally) by a slice of lemon cheesecake. (I was in too much of a sugar fog to note the cake vendor’s name.) Downstairs, Everyday Gourmet offered a cozy retreat amid the bustle. The aroma of freshly roasted beans made it hard to leave, even though I’m not a coffee drinker. My tea was heavenly.
Beyond the market, we later treated ourselves to a memorable Italian dinner at Enoteca Sociale. The Dundas Street restaurant, which opened in 2010, has earned rave reviews for its handmade pasta, award-winning wine list and excellent service.
From the moment the warm focaccia and plump green olives arrived at our table, we knew we were in for something special. A vibrant heirloom tomato salad topped with clouds of fresh ricotta set the stage perfectly.
Then came the showstopper — agnolotti filled with lemon ricotta and wild mushrooms, bathed in a delicate butter sauce and finished with ribbons of Parmigiano. Each bite was bliss.
And as if the evening couldn’t get any sweeter, my daughter and son-in-law surprised me back at their apartment with a decadent chocolate birthday cake — the perfect finale to my special day.
Naturally, we couldn’t leave Toronto without a few more appetizing detours. There was the juicy smash burger and refreshing craft beer at the Steam Whistle Brewery amid happy Jays fans. There was the takeout pie from hugely popular Pizzeria Badiali. (I can’t remember which one we ordered but it was cheesy nirvana.)
The pièce de résistance? A return visit to Le Gourmand. I’d been before and knew a birthday stop was in order for one of their famous chocolate-chip cookies. (Anyone know of any Moncton gyms with membership deals currently?)
Retail Therapy and Joyful Wandering
No Toronto trip is complete without some retail therapy — and since I can never resist perusing local shops while exploring a city, I happily indulged. Having the birthday excuse helped silence any potential naysayers. Over the weekend we easily logged 15,000 steps a day, balancing all that food with plenty of walking and browsing.
I especially loved strolling along Ossington Avenue in my daughter and son-in-law’s neighbourhood, popping into shops like Kotn, a Toronto-based brand known for its ethically made apparel and home goods, and Monos, where sleek, minimalist luggage tempted me. At The Latest Scoop, my daughter and I had a laugh trying on sunglasses. Next time, we’ll hide the sales tags better.
Other fun detours included 401 Games on Yonge Street, perfect for our board-game-loving crew, and Henry’s Camera on Church, where this birthday girl couldn’t resist picking up a new gadget for future adventures.
We also browsed the Eaton Centre for fall inspiration and wandered through a few Winners and Marshalls stores in the vicinity, where I tried my best runway moves.
Game Day Joy!
The weekend’s grand finale came at the Rogers Centre, where we watched the Blue Jays’ final regular-season game. We’d purchased tickets months earlier, well before the Jays were in the playoff race. The electric energy in the stadium was a birthday bonus!
Sitting in Section 233, high-fiving strangers as the Jays scored run after run in a 13–4 win over the Tampa Bay Rays, I couldn’t stop smiling. When the scoreboard flashed the words AL East Champions, the entire stadium erupted. What a way to wrap up a birthday weekend!
Sixty in The Six?
They call Toronto “The Six,” and celebrating 59 here was a fantastic trial run. Sixty in The Six? Now that sounds like a party in the making!
Unbridled Friendship: An Escape to the Fredericton Capital Region
A girlfriends’ getaway to the Fredericton area delivered it all: galleries, good food, a sunset cruise, a retreat with horses — even shooting stars.
Jen and I in Grade 1 at Colby School in Sydney, Nova Scotia. We’d met a year earlier and became fast friends.
There’s something magical about travelling with a childhood friend. You share old stories, double over in laughter and enjoy new experiences that turn into stories you’ll retell for years. That’s exactly what I discovered on a recent girls’ weekend in New Brunswick’s Fredericton Capital Region.
Nestled along the Wolastoq (Saint John River), Fredericton offers a lovely mix of riverside trails, cultural sophistication and small-city warmth. The Fredericton Capital Region stretches across the Wolastoq, Nashwaak and Oromocto watersheds.
When I co-authored the guidebook Lonely Planet Atlantic Canada (2024), I described the Fredericton area as offering endless opportunities to explore history and culture — from outstanding art galleries and museums to heritage sites and lively festivals. I also noted its superb restaurants and vibrant craft brewery scene. Visiting again last weekend with my lifelong friend, Jen, reminded me how true that is — and how well it lends itself to a girlfriends’ getaway filled with art, food, history and, of course, joy!
Road trip mode: two childhood friends, one weekend of adventure ahead!
Saturday: Market, Art and Flavourful Bites
Our weekend began at the Boyce Farmers Market, which will celebrate its 75th anniversary next year. More than 200 vendors fill indoor and outdoor spaces in Fredericton’s downtown core each Saturday morning, offering everything from fresh produce to hand-knit socks. For locals, it’s a weekly ritual.
We strolled between stalls, sampling bites, chatting with vendors and leaving with bunches of sunflowers — a cheerful kickoff to the weekend.
Sunflowers in hand at the Boyce Farmers Market, a Saturday tradition in Fredericton for almost 75 years.
Next up was lunch at one of Fredericton’s most iconic pubs, The Snooty Fox on Regent Street. While it wasn’t my first choice for a girls’ lunch — the spot I’d originally planned was closed — it turned out to be a happy accident. Here, Jen and I met up with another dear friend, Kim, who recently battled cancer and, (very thankfully!), survived. Over plates of classic pub fare — fish and chips, clubhouse sandwiches — we caught up on life, health and resilience. We left with plates empty and hearts full.
Girls’ lunch at The Snooty Fox celebrating Kim’s continued recovery.
The afternoon was all about art and discovery. The Fredericton Capital Region punches far above its weight when it comes to the arts, anchored by the Beaverbrook Art Gallery. Founded in 1959 with works donated by Lord Beaverbrook, the gallery has grown into a world-class institution with more than 4,000 pieces, including Salvador Dalí’s monumental Santiago el Grande. It’s also deeply committed to contemporary Atlantic Canadian artists.
Jen up close with dazzling Pacotille / Trinket by New Brunswick multimedia artist and designer Denise Richard.
Art spills beyond the Beaverbrook and Fredericton’s other galleries, too. For example, The Artisan District brims with creativity at every turn. I was thrilled to see the quirky beavers and ducks of Moncton folk artist and pal Stephen Brander (Fiddlers Folk Art), shelves stacked with pottery and jewelry crafted from local shells. My favourite find? A shimmering quahog shell necklace by Moncton artist Marcia Poirier — a little early birthday treat for moi.
A quahog shell necklace by Moncton’s Marcia Poirier — my perfect Fredericton keepsake.
A whimsical beaver creation by Moncton folk artist Stephen Brander.
In late afternoon, we checked into our home base for the night, the Delta Hotels by Marriott Fredericton. Perched beside the river, it’s the kind of hotel that offers both luxury and comfort: sleek rooms, sweeping water views and the feeling of being both close to downtown and worlds away from any hustle and bustle.
We loved the river view from our spacious room — with two super-comfy queen beds — at the Delta Hotels by Marriott Fredericton.
After a quick clothing change, we headed straight to the river’s edge. A sunset cruise with Wolastoq Adventures turned out to be one of the trip’s memorable highlights. The pontoon-style boat — wide and stable with cushioned bench seating, roof and windows — is perfect for small groups. Gliding along the river with four other guests, Jen and I saw the city from a new perspective — passing under the Westmorland Street Bridge, catching views of the Legislative Assembly building and soaking up Fredericton’s riverfront charm. As the sun dipped low, the sky lit up in fiery orange and soft gold, delivering a breathtaking finale to the day.
Well, almost the end of the day.
Evening brought more wows! At 11th Mile, a restaurant beloved by locals for its sharing plates and big flavours, Chef Peter Tompkins took us on a culinary adventure while his partner, Jennie Wilson, ensured service was warm and attentive.
Every dish delivered a delicious surprise.
The beef tostada provided a crunchy, saucy pow; the cucumber with salsa macha and soy emulsion was fresh and tangy. The cavatelli with squash, roasted peppers and Calabrian chili was hearty and bright, while the gnocchi with lamb ragù, mint and peas felt like fluffy clouds of comfort.
With citrusy Summer Rain cocktails in hand, Jen and I clinked glasses and agreed: this was midlife joy at its finest!
Sunday: Heritage & Horses
The next morning, we packed up at the Delta and drove 30 minutes west to Kings Landing, a sprawling living history village that reconstructs 19th-century New Brunswick life. Costumed interpreters welcomed us into clapboard homes and workshops. It reminded Jen and me of the dress-up games we played as kids — and had us half-seriously wondering if interpreter life might be in our future.
(I may return in October when Kings Landing offers its Thanksgiving feast at the King’s Head Inn. Tickets are available for the seasonal meal on October 4, 5, 11, 12 and 13. Check out www.kingslanding.nb.ca/thanksgiving.)
The entrance to Elite Equestrian.
From history, we shifted to healing. Just fifteen minutes away in Harvey, we joined a Fall Ladies Retreat at Elite Equestrian, hosted in partnership with Integrated Elevation Wellness & Retreats.
Behind the amazing afternoon was Brittney O’Donnell, whose lifelong love of horses has shaped Elite Equestrian into a welcoming hub for riders of all levels. Whether it’s coaching, training or hosting retreats, Britt’s down-to-earth approach and genuine care for her horses create an atmosphere where both people and animals can thrive.
Retreat participants were divided into two groups, with the first (Jen and I included) headed to a corral for some Equine-Assisted Learning (EAL), where we discovered that horses reflect back our energy in remarkable ways. Guided by Somatic Experiencing therapist and certified EAL facilitator Meaghan MacLeod, owner of Integrated Elevation Wellness & Retreats, we explored how presence, trust and empathy shape relationships — both equine and human.
Next came a scenic trail ride under gorgeous autumn skies. Saddled up, we wound through forest paths, the rhythm of hooves on fallen leaves becoming its own quiet meditation.
Later, a therapeutic massage outdoors, courtesy of registered massage therapist (RMT) Erin Black, helped ease away tension, which was especially welcome for those of us who hadn’t been in the saddle for years.
RMT Erin Black works on Jen’s shoulders after the trail ride. I was next. It felt heavenly!
Elite Equestrian owner Brittney (Britt) O’Donnell, left, with EAL facilitator Meaghan MacLeod, centre, and RMT Erin Black, right.
The retreat ended with a local tasting experience at The Dandelion Den, a cute cabin located just a short walk from the stables. Inside, we gathered around a yummy charcuterie board, which we nibbled from while sampling cocktails created using spirits from Harvey-based Big Fiddle Still. The sun shone warmly outside, the trees already brushed with early autumn colour, making it all feel like a lovely last breath of summer.
The Dandelion Den, where we gathered for post-retreat refreshments and, later, where Jen and I stayed for the night.
That evening, Jen and I embraced the unplugged charm of the cabin. With only battery-operated lights and the warmth of a woodstove, we played games, sipped some vino and laughed lots. When all traces of daylight were gone, we bundled up in extra layers and settled into Adirondack chairs outside the cabin, gazing up at an incredible night sky. To our delight, we spotted two shooting stars streaking across the darkness. It was the perfect reminder of how simple moments can feel extraordinary when shared with a good friend.
Monday: Farewell & Takeaways
Morning came crisp and frosty, the kind of fall air that makes you add a second layer before you make a run to the outhouse.
After packing up, we returned to Fredericton for one last stop: The Cabin. The eatery — an area institution since 1934— is known for its hearty breakfasts and cozy diner atmosphere, a terrific send-off before we hit the road again.
My overflowing plate of breakfast goodies at The Cabin.
As we drove back to my home in Moncton, I thought back to the weekend’s highlights, including those two shooting stars — so fleeting and beautiful. I’m still thinking about them, reminded of how important it is to carve out time for connection, laughter and midlife joy.
Make the call. Plan the trip. Take time for the special people in your life.
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This experience was made possible through a hosted stay in collaboration with Fredericton Capital Region Tourism and Destination New Brunswick. All stories, impressions and joy-filled moments are entirely my own.
Finding joy in history’s pages
An American friend recently gifted me a treasure: vintage Canadian travel brochures and maps, long forgotten in a cottage attic. Every page feels like a ticket back in time.
What’s inside? Read on to see why this little bag brought me so much joy!
Last week, an American friend surprised me with an amazing gift: a collection of 12 vintage Canadian brochures and maps. They were used on trips by members of her family decades ago and tucked away in the attic of their Maine cottage.
It felt like Christmas in August!
As a travel writer who has spent much of her career exploring East Coast destinations — especially in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia — I’m having a ball flipping through the pages of these tourism gems. Folded corners and pencilled notes add intriguing hints of journeys long past. What a thrill!
Holding a few of the vintage treasures — tourism guides from a past generation of travellers.
Moncton memories
Among the items in the bundle is a 38-page reference booklet titled Moncton, N.B.: The Hub of the Maritimes, published in 1934 as an update to a 1923 edition. It chronicles the city’s rise from a small settlement once called The Bend (after the curve in the Petitcodiac River) into a flourishing community of about 22,000 people.
This Moncton resident already knew some of the historical info in the guide: that shipbuilding was the city’s first big industry, employing hundreds in the 1800s. (The image of the Petitcodiac River lined with ships still blows my mind!)
I also knew how Moncton reinvented itself as a railway town when shipbuilding declined, serving first as headquarters for the Intercolonial Railway and later the Canadian National Railways for the Atlantic Region.
But some quirky facts in the brochure were new to me. Case in point: on Dec. 1, 1922, New Brunswickers switched to driving on the right-hand side of the road from the left. How did I not know this remarkable nugget?
This learning led me down an online rabbit hole to discover more about life in the province at the time of the big switch. If you’re equally interested, check out this fascinating 2018 piece by the CBC’s Julia Wright.
Flipping through the 1934 “Moncton: Hub of the Maritimes” booklet gives me an overview of the city and a glimpse into a big driving change in 1922.
Selling the province
What strikes me most about the Depression-era guides in my goodie bag is their relentless optimism. Even in difficult times, Moncton is pitched as a place of opportunity, with Eaton’s Maritime distribution plant (then the largest of its kind in the British Empire) and Swift Canadian Ltd. held up as proof.
Meanwhile, the province as a whole is — much like today — portrayed as an outdoor paradise. A pictorial map shows salmon leaping from rivers, canoeists gliding on mirrored lakes. The Bay of Chaleur was clearly the hot ticket of its day, billed as “Canada’s New Vacationland.” I wish I could step back in time to this Utopia!
Above: A 1930s pictorial map of New Brunswick.
Below: A playful ad inviting visitors to “Investigate the vacationing opportunities.”
Saint John: A refreshing coastal escape
The port city of Saint John published its own promotional booklet in 1937, describing itself as “Nature’s Air-Cooled City by the Sea.” It promises scenic drives, bathing beaches, golf courses and day trips upriver via steamship.
Along with a city map of the day, one of my favourite parts of the booklet is a series of ads from Eastern Canada Coastal Steamships Ltd. They’re a peek into the dream vacations of the day — and the price listings are just as entertaining as the ads.
Nova Scotia: Where history meets romance
The Nova Scotia booklets lean heavily into history and more than a little romance. Historic Nova Scotia opens with John Cabot’s 1497 voyage and the arrival of the Acadians in 1632, but it doesn’t stop at the facts. The copy leans into the “romance of the sea,” painting explorers, settlers and even fishermen with a storybook glow. The province isn’t just sold as historic — it’s pitched as downright swoon-worthy!
Beyond the flowery descriptions, my eye catches one dog-eared page that highlights Louisbourg, with a checkmark in the margin, presumably a ‘gotta go here’ indicator.
As someone who grew up 30 minutes from the coastal town, I totally agree with the vivid description: “Bold, rocky, ocean scenery, where the Atlantic surges pound with ceaseless roar.”
What really catches my attention, as I read on, are the quirky specifics — including a note about good swordfishing at the time. That sends me down another rabbit hole of online research, where I discover that swordfishing was a big deal in the Louisbourg area during the 1930s, with the industry declining in the 1960s, likely due to overfishing. I’ll be ready to pull out that piece of trivia at my next family gathering!
Nova Scotia, as pitched in the early 20th century: heritage, pride and a touch of romance.
A page from Historic Nova Scotia, where I learn that Louisbourg once had “good swordfishing”. Who knew?
History, with a side of joy
Not everyone is going to get excited about a stack of old brochures, but this gift has me feeling like a kid in a candy store. I feel unexpectedly connected to them, maybe because they tell the story of the Atlantic region with the same pride I try to carry into my own work.
Do you have boxes tucked away from another generation? Take a peek — the past still has plenty of joy to share.
Girls’ getaway to Halifax: Laughter, waterfront walks and a splash of joy!
One of my favourite girls’ getaways this year: Halifax — for laughter, waterfront strolls, great dining and creating my own signature perfume, Joy.
✨ I felt this story deserved a second share here in Midlife Report. Earlier this year, my girlfriends and I escaped to Halifax for a getaway filled with laughter, great food and even a little sparkle. It quickly became one of my favourite adventures of the year so far — and even inspired me to create my very own perfume: Joy!
With bags packed and car fueled, an enthusiastic crew of gal pals and I set off for Halifax with road trip staples: hot drinks, 80s playlists and lots of chatter.
The first stop on the roughly three-hour drive was Masstown Market, a classic break between Moncton and Halifax. After browsing the shops (and trying on a cozy coat I’m still dreaming of), we grabbed sandwiches to go and forged on to the Nova Scotia capital.
Tried on this snuggly coat and cute hat at Masstown Market on our way to Halifax. Left both items behind but kept thinking about that coat. Note to self: Treat thy midlife self more!
Exploring the waterfront
Crossing the Macdonald Bridge into Halifax always feels like coming home — it’s where I went to university, started my journalism career and even met (and married!) my husband.
After parking in the Halifax Seaport area, the girls and I stretched our legs with a brisk waterfront walk, passing unique Queen’s Marque sculptures and ferry boats in the sparkling harbour. Georges Island — a historic fortification now part of Parks Canada — sat proudly in the distance. At Carrefour Atlantic Emporium in Historic Properties, there were terrific books to browse. At nearby Posh, we shared chuckles over quirky greeting cards and admired lovely home décor.
Cool temps didn’t stop my 50+ crew from adventuring earlier this year. Here, the gals wander the vibrant Halifax waterfront as I capture the memory.
Posh, tucked inside Halifax’s Historic Properties, made for a fun shopping stop with its funky array of souvenirs and home décor.
At Posh, stumbled upon this little treasure — so true!
Sweet + scented adventures
We couldn’t resist a stop at Peace by Chocolate before heading to The 7 Virtues fragrance atelier, founded by Halifax entrepreneur Barb Stegemann. Her vegan, ethically sourced fragrances are a Canadian success story now sold in Sephora stores worldwide.
The 7 Virtues storefront on the Halifax waterfront is impossible to miss, bursting with floral charm
Though Stegemann wasn’t in town during our visit, her knowledgeable staff guided us through the unique process of designing our own signature scents. We walked along various scent stations, spraying a bit of each perfume on blotters and noted our favourites. From there, we sat at a worktable and used pipettes to drop chosen scents from jars into our own glass bottle.
I blended Amber Woods, Coconut Sun, Santal Vanille and Candied Lychee for my concoction — and named it Joy.
My friends and I channeled our inner perfumiers at The 7 Virtues — blending drops of the store’s signature scents to design personalized fragrances. What a fun, unique experience!
A sign of things to come? I named my perfume ‘Joy’ months before stepping into my role as your Midlife Joy Guide. Seems the universe had a theme in mind!
We’re all smiles showing off our custom perfumes at The 7 Virtues.
A taste of Paris in Halifax
Next, we headed to Café Lunette, a chic French-inspired bistro. Mimosas, smoked salmon crepes and a finale of crème brûlée transported us straight to Paris. Calories be damned!
Nothing says midlife joy quite like sipping mimosas with your gal pals in a vibey spot. Café Lunette was the perfect place to toast our Halifax getaway!
Ooh la la — Café Lunette’s delicious smoked salmon crepes brought a taste of Paris to our Halifax getaway.
Lights, camera, laughs!
That night, we trekked to the Lighthouse Arts Centre for what would be a trip highlight: watching a live taping of CBC’s This Hour Has 22 Minutes. From the witty pre-show banter to the hilarious sketches, the energy in the room was contagious. Meeting the cast afterward was icing on the cake.
My group of five gal pals pose with cardboard cutouts of the cast before taking our seats in the studio.
Showtime!!
The 22 Minutes cast — Mark Critch, Trent McClellan, Aba Amuquandoh, Stacey McGunnigle and Chris Wilson — were even funnier in person, tossing out witty quips between the taped segments.
A cozy end to the day
Our ribs sore from laughing, my getaway squad and I wrapped up the evening at the Brewery Park Hotel in Halifax’s North End, where we’d checked in earlier. Our bright, modern suites (with kitchenettes!) were the perfect base for our stay. After a little late-night girl talk and a glass of vino, we called it a day — an amazing one!
The Brewery Park Hotel, with its fresh style and ample amenities, was a lovely spot for my crew to settle in for the night after a full day of adventure.
Your author, kicking back with a cuppa at the Brewery Park Hotel after a good night’s rest.
Bliss at Bliss!
The next morning, we made a sweet stop at Bliss Caffeine Bar on South Park Street, owned by Michelle MacDonald. Her “poptarts” and “cinnamuffins” more than lived up to the café’s name — superb travel treats for our drive home.
Michelle MacDonald, owner of Bliss Caffeine Bar, welcomed us with a warm smile and treats that more than lived up to the café’s name
Sparkle + nostalgia
We couldn’t leave town without a visit to one of the group’s longtime favourite stops — the Ardmore Tea Room. After a hearty breakfast, we ventured to the Halifax Shopping Centre for a little retail therapy. I couldn’t resist trying on a wild-for-me outfit at Zara: a fringed jacket and sequined mini skirt with thigh-high boots. There were mixed reviews on the ensemble, but I decided the jacket was a keeper!
No trip to Halifax is complete without a trip to the Ardmore Tea Room, a Quinpool Road diner known for its delicious and well-priced eats.
Tried on this combo at Zara in Halifax — the jacket made the cut and is now part of my midlife adventures wardrobe!
Halifax: A midlife lesson in joy
This girls’ getaway reminded me that Halifax will always hold a special place in my heart. It also highlighted an important truth: Joy doesn’t always fall into our laps — it’s something we can choose to create. Whether it’s blending a signature scent, laughing with friends at a comedy show or simply gathering pals for a no-cost walk in the woods, midlife adventures are waiting.
Just say YES!
A joy-filled Cape Breton family getaway
Discover Terra Nova, a log home retreat on Cape Breton’s Port Morien Bay — the perfect multigenerational family getaway with kayaking, sunsets and oodles of coastal charm.
Welcome to Midlife Report — my new space for sharing stories about and for women 50+! Here, you’ll find travel inspiration, wellness ideas and real-life stories of joy, reinvention and connection. I created this blog so more women in our amazing age range will say YES to what sparks joy and lights up their soul.
For me, one of those things has always been family. Reconnecting with loved ones, especially across generations, fills me with a deep sense of happiness and grounding. So it felt right that my first post should celebrate a multigenerational getaway — the kind of trip filled with meaningful conversations, loads of laughs and memories that last long after you’ve returned home.
Perched above the warm tidal waters of Port Morien Bay in South Head, N.S., Terra Nova Retreat is an impressive log home where rustic charm meets modern comfort.
Our Cape Breton gathering spot
We found that magic at Terra Nova Retreat, a stunning handcrafted log home in South Head, N.S., a small seaside community in southeast Cape Breton. Listed on Airbnb, Terra Nova is owned by Eleanor and Terence Roach, a sweet couple who bought the property about a decade ago. Back then, it was a partially built dream that had been abandoned mid-construction. Over the years, they brought it to life with care, detail and warmth, resulting in a home that’s both luxurious and welcoming.
Eleanor and Terence Roach, owners of beautiful Terra Nova Retreat.
With my parents living just a 30-minute drive from the property in Sydney, my hubby, two daughters, one son-in-law and a dog made the drive from New Brunswick here for a few days of together time. Terra Nova’s spacious layout was perfect for our three generations under one roof (and it’s pet-friendly!)
The open-concept kitchen, dining and living areas invite conversation, shared meals and relaxed time together.
With its open layout and comfy leather seating, Terra Nova’s living room is a fantastic gathering space.
Though not used during our visit, a wood stove adds to the cozy charm. The TV might be a great feature during rainy stays but we don’t even turn it on, blessed by gorgeous weather and so much to do.
This little vignette creates a cheery corner off the kitchen.
An enormous clock fills one of the vaulted space over the living room, though no one is watching the time.
Sunlight pours through a second-floor window. No worries! A heat pump keeps everyone cool during our mid-summer visit.
Thoughtful touches and chef’s kitchen feasts
From the moment we arrived, we felt at home. A welcome basket of local treats greeted us and the fridge was stocked with condiments, fresh eggs, and other essentials.
The chef’s kitchen quickly was a delight. With its generous counter space, high-end appliances and every gadget imaginable, it was a wonderful spot for making meals together.
A dreamy kitchen became our weekend hub when we weren’t enjoying the great outdoors.
A warm Cape Breton welcome — Terra Nova’s owners greet visitors with a basket of local treats and a fridge stocked with fresh eggs, condiments and other essentials.
A coffee, tea and microwave station are lovingly tucked under the dramatic staircase.
Waterfront heaven
One of Terra Nova’s biggest draws is its private waterfront on warm tidal waters. We swam, kayaked, fished and waded with the dog, who was only too happy to join in the fun.
The waters adjacent the property are part of Port Morien Bay, an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean on Cape Breton’s southeastern coast. The sheltered shoreline means the area has warmer temps than the open Atlantic, making it lovely for a family frolic.
The shoreline was a beehive of activity for fishing, swimming and just catching up.
My oldest daughter takes a solo spin in a kayak on the peaceful waters fronting the property.
Happily surrounded by family and amazing views, I wave to the camera and float on by.
The amber wood tones of the home’s massive logs create a charming backdrop to the porch overlooking the waterfront.
From the wide porch, we watched spectacular sunsets that painted the sky in gold and pink. Peace and quiet reigned — just the sound of the occasional bird call.
Speaking of birds, a graceful great blue heron became our unofficial neighbour, often spotted fishing along the shoreline. Osprey and other species were also in the mix.
And here’s a rare Cape Breton treat: surprisingly few bugs — no frantic slapping or sprinting indoors required. Hallelujah!
A great blue heron embarks on some sunset fishing.
Restful nights, bright mornings
After full days of fresh air and water fun (not to mention hearty dinners and a few rounds of fiercely contested family games), none of stayed up too late. We headed to our own cozy corners of Terra Nova, ending our days in the luxury of spa-like baths and well-appointed bedrooms. By morning, we woke feeling rested, recharged and ready to do it all over again.
My parents were more than comfortable in this first-floor bedroom and nearby bathroom with shower.
Hubby and I drifted off to dreamland in this spacious bedroom featuring soft blues, a serene style and its own balcony.
This inviting bedroom with waterfront views has an adjacent balcony, a lovely spot for morning coffee.
Bath anyone? I may have lingered in this clawfoot gem a bit, soaking up a solo moment and the coastal décor.
Little touches that make you smile: Wish, Hope and Dream stones on the vanity remind guests to slow down and savour the moment.
Why it matters
Trips like this remind me why I decided to write Midlife Report. Life is busy and, as the years go by, I’m feeling increasingly motivated by connection — to each other, to nature and to ourselves. Our family time at Terra Nova gave me the chance to refocus on ways to come together, unplug and just be.
This is the kind of midlife I'm ready for, filled with love, laughter and unhurried days. Here’s to joyful gatherings that make the midlife soul sing!